Piperade, a red pepper-based spread, makes sandwiches special.

My friend was heading off to an evening Muay Thai boxing class (a flying-limb, crazy-exhausting form of martial arts training) this Tuesday, but we were eager to get a visit in, so we fashioned a playdate for our boys that would spill into early dinner. In the spirit of Tuesday night, I should have opted for sandwiches. But this seemed too boring, so I thought of something just as easy and more wine bar-ish, like a giant tapa. The night before, I put together one of my all-time favorite preparations—a big vat of sliced bell peppers cooked long and slow until they form a dense jammy spread. This is basically, a Basque piperade and can be put to use in any number of ways: as a little relish for fish, mixed into pasta or a frittata, or as I did in this case, spread on a piece of toasted bread and topped with a poached egg. Like caramelized onions, it is hard to believe how much flavor you can get out of staple ingredients if you just shove them around a skillet for long enough.

One thing led to another and my friend blew off her class (a Tuesday night triumph!) and we savored our little piperade rafts alongside a few glasses of random Australian Grenache that was lying around , plus a springy salad of mizuna, shaved asparagus and blood orange segments. I didn't mean to get so twee with my salad, but honestly, it was the only citrus I had in my house. Shaving asparagus, by the way sounds fancy, but if you use a cheapo mandolin or even a carrot peeler, you can serve the asparagus without cooking it-so it counts as a shortcut in my book. Besides, what could be prettier than long green-edged ribbons of asparagus?

We fed the kids first-ravioli, carrot sticks, and a little smoked salmon, and they pretended their Ikea forks and spoons were facial appendages. Then, as we ate, the boys ran off to Gus' room as soon as they could, and acted out untold imaginary battles without actual incident until they got hold of some yellow paint. It was washed along with most of the dishes, by my friend, who is so supportive of the Tuesday night party that she didn't want to leave me moping over a sink full of dishes come ten o'clock. I put up a lame protest when she offered, but she rebuffed me and told me that one of the pleasures of my experiment was getting to redefine matters of propriety. "It's Tuesday night, after all," she said.

Piperade:

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 green bell pepper, cored and thinly sliced lengthwise
4 red peppers, cored and thinly sliced lengthwise
1 red onion, peeled and thinly sliced lengthwise
4 cloves garlic peeled, and thinly sliced
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 can whole peeled tomatoes, drained, tomatoes cored and squeezed of pulp
4-5 sprigs thyme
1 teaspoon smoked paprika

In a large skillet or braising pan, heat the oil over medium high heat, then add the green and red peppers, onion, garlic, thyme, and salt. Cook, stirring frequently for about ten minutes, until the vegetables seem tender, and add the tomatoes; then turn heat down to medium low. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally until the vegetables are very tender, almost jammy, and darkened to a richer shade of red. If a brown crust develops on the bottom of the pan at any point, add a few tablespoons of water and scrape up the residue. To really get the maximum flavor out of the peppers, I'd go at low heat for about an hour. Stir in the paprika, stir to distribute for a minute, then turn off the heat and serve or set aside for use within 2 or 3 days.

The leftovers: Tossed piperade with penne, canned sardines on top; a little dill. Oily fish seems especially well suited to the sweet n' tangy pepper spread.

Tags: asparagus, cooking, frittata, mizuna, muay thai, piperade, salad

Sara Dickerman has written about food for Slate, the New York Times Magazine, Food and Wine, Bon Appetit, and Seattle magazine.

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Tuesday Night Dinner Party: Don’t Smoke a Duck

How I learned to stop cooking like a chef.

Sara Dickerman
|
May 15, 2009

Life

The Red Pepper Piperade That Will Change Your Life

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