Health & Science
Which Primer Is Worth the Time?
Testing out the pre-foundation, post-moisturizer product that’s all the rage.
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Texan that I am, I started wearing makeup before most East Coast adolescents began dreaming of the Ivy League. But despite all my childhood trips to the Neiman’s cosmetics counter, I’ve always stuck to the basics: tinted moisturizer, concealer for my prison-camp under-eye circles, on special occasions some blush.
So when the high-school friend who did my makeup for prom, my wedding, and sundry smaller occasions in between told me I absolutely had to start using primer, I was skeptical. Primers, which allegedly “prime” the skin for makeup, were now sold by almost every major makeup line. They’re not a moisturizer, not a foundation, but a stepping-stone in between.
But are primers really essential for those of us who don’t strut the catwalk for a living? If not replace foundation, then what exactly does a primer do? Marketing materials have alluring, but unconvincing, answers: Primer is supposed to make foundation last longer, but that’s not all. It also “creates a perfect canvas for foundation application” and “acts as an invisible barrier between skin and makeup.” Um … OK?
My visiting mother was likewise confused. Since she—also a Texan—is the reason I wear makeup in the first place, I counted on her to provide useful insights on the dozen-some primers that soon crowded my over-the-toilet cabinet. As she stepped inside the bathroom, I repeated the instructions I’d read in so many package inserts: “After you moisturize, you put on a little primer. Let it set, then apply makeup as usual.”
Ninety seconds later, my mother emerged with a bottle of primer in each hand. “I don’t understand,” she said. “I put this on instead of moisturizer?” I shook my head. “No, Mom, after. It’s like a pre-makeup makeup.” The door shut again. Seconds later, reopened. “So now I have to put three different things on my face, every morning?” I nodded. “Isn’t that a lot of trouble?”
I cannot say that I disagreed, especially early on.
The Testing
Over the last month, I tested a huge variety of primers with the help of two friends, both self-described “product people” with normal skin and abnormally long work days. We wore each primer under consideration for at least three days.
There are two main types of primers: Silicone-based gels and shimmery lotions that go on sheer and behave suspiciously like regular moisturizers. In general, the silicone formulas fared much better in our trials. Which is good news, since silicone seems to be a fairly safe substance to spread over your face. I looked up three of the silicone derivatives most commonly listed at the top of these primers’ ingredient lists—cyclomethicone, dimethicone crosspolymer, and cetyl dimethicone—and was pleased to find all received “low hazard” rankings from the Environmental Working Group’s usually alarmist Cosmetics Database. Of course, almost all of these products also contain highly toxic preservatives like methyl paraben and propylene glycol, which—despite all the horrendous, hormone-disrupting things we know about them—appear in most other conventional cosmetics as well.
To start, here are the products that aren’t quite ready for prime time.
THE LOSERS …
Fresh Rose Primer, $36
This primer is distinctly underwhelming: pretty much a glorified moisturizer, but in a smaller container and without the SPF. It did nothing to change the texture of our skin, and the fragrance wasn’t even that delightful.
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Comments
It's a pity to dismiss the
By: Falconress | Fri, 12/25/2009 - 20:48
It's a pity to dismiss the Monistat just because of its name. It's just the name that's printed on the tube, you know. If you don't use it for "that" purpose, you don't have to think of it "that" way. If it helps, just squeeze it out into a cute little jar. Why go to all that trouble? Because it happens to function brilliantly as a face primer, and it'd be a shame to miss out on such a good, inexpensive solution. In fact, I've gone even farther: I use CVS' generic version of the Monistat product. And I do transfer it to a little jar, because I like applying creams from jars, so sometimes I even forget just what a cheapskate I am.
They are both (Monistat and the CVS version) silicone-based, with a consistency a bit thicker than Smashbox's product, and are a translucent white that applies clear on the skin. I find they smooth out my skin; I think the silicone fills in some of the smaller wrinkles or absence of smoothness (obviously it doesn't make major wrinkles disappear, it isn't magic) and allows makeup to go on more smoothly without "settling" into wrinkles around my eyes, for example. I use mineral makeup and primer also protects my sensitive skin from any ingredients that sometimes cause slight itching or irritation, if I didn't know they were in the makeup (for example, bismuth). I can feel the difference instantly if I forget to use primer, or apply makeup to an area that wasn't primed. Since I took the chance and am willing to use the drugstore substitute for the pricey brands, it's also quite an inexpensive addition to my routine, and now I wouldn't consider "doing" my face without it.
just breathe, face
By: lp | Sun, 12/13/2009 - 10:42
"Helps the foundation last longer." What exactly happens to the foundation if you don't use primer? It must either (a) fall off your face, if you do lots of face-rubbing or sweating during the day, (b) get absorbed into your skin, ew, or (c) stay on your skin but be somehow degraded so it's not looking good and you have a pool of broken down foundation ingredients on your face. So how does primer stop these things? Does it glue the foundation to your face? Or does it shield your skin from the foundation but also freeze the foundation in place? And if it makes your skin feel so smooth, is that because it's not really your skin you're feeling but the layer of dimethicone or whatever? And does that clog pores?
primer..eww
By: breathe101 | Wed, 12/09/2009 - 08:40
Using the Monistat anti chafing is like using Prep H for the puffy under eye thing. Models do it all the time. So does my husband:)
I'm a convert as well....
By: melzent | Sun, 12/06/2009 - 17:01
I'm also from TX, and yes, we don't even go out the the mailbox without makeup on. (Because you never know who you'll run into!) I thought that primer was dumb until I tried it. It really makes the makeup last, especially on hot days. But like most people, I only use it when I've got a long day ahead of me or a special occasion. FYI? The Rimmel brand of primer works pretty well, and it's only $7 at good ol' Target.
Primer is OK
By: PinkGrapefruit | Thu, 12/03/2009 - 17:08
I bought a Smashbox sample kit a while back which included the Photo Finish primer (original). I really liked it, just like the author, but like some of the other people have mentioned I only bother with it on special occasions. Of course, I only bother with make-up at all on special occasions or if I have blemishes to hide. However, if I want my make-up to look fresh all night, the primer really helps.
Definitely not "ew"
By: wren | Thu, 12/03/2009 - 04:06
I know, I know, the idea of putting anything made by Monistat on your face is a little off-putting. But as junecarter pointed out, the anti-chafing stuff is made for inner thighs and whatnot.
It's also nearly identical to DHC's lovely "Velvet Skin Coat" primer, which I own but only break out on special occasions because it's more than twice the price of the Monistat stuff. So in this case I'd say it's worth getting over the (I would say very minor) ew factor and trying it if you're interested in the primer concept but not willing to shell out $20 or $30 (or more).
Monistat
By: junecarter | Wed, 12/02/2009 - 14:33
To be clear, the version of Monistat mentioned is not the medicated yeast infection cream you use on your "lady parts". It is an anti chafing cream, to be used to stop chafing thighs. It is the same ingredient used in anti chafing sports creams.
Love the Smashbox
By: taxipeach78 | Wed, 12/02/2009 - 13:45
I only use it for long days and special occasions, but I'm a fan of the Smashbox primer. It keeps makeup in place, so concealer doesn't wear off and eyeshadow doesn't "fall".
GingerR
By: GingerR | Wed, 12/02/2009 - 13:10
I've got serious dry/rosecea skin, so I look for a primer to seal my pours and help the foundation stay put enough to cover discoloration - I run pretty ruddy.
I've tried tinted products like the Smashbox, but haven't been too keen on a green tint. It sounds great when they're selling it to you but if it's that green you can see it and if it's not that green why use it?
I'm thumbs down on Smashbox. Not to appear too chintzy, but it's impossible to use all the product in the bottle. It's so thick the bottom layer sits at the bottom and won't come up through the pump tube. The product should be more fluid to win my approval because the waste bumps the price up.
I like Revlon Beyond Natural primer. It's much less expensive and you can get it all out of the tube to boot!
Shameless plug for Smashbox
By: virginia | Tue, 12/01/2009 - 14:09
I was also unimpressed with the primer concept until I tried the Smashbox Photo Finish — the friend who did my wedding makeup talked me into trying it. Voila -- no more cakey foundation fake skin look, and I do think it helped my face from melting off in the June humidity.
I don't bother with makeup most days (excess chemicals, excess hassle) and it has to be a really special occasion for me to go to the trouble of foundation, but when I do, I always start with the primer first.