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On Monday, Conde Nast announced it would stop production of four of its glossy titles: Gourmet, Cookie, Modern Bride, and Elegant Bride. Over the week, writers have mourned those magazines' passing on DoubleX. Here's a roundup.
I realize it’s not the end of the world; it’s not even tragic, strictly speaking. Nevertheless, the demise of Gourmet is a sad and bad thing for people who cook, who eat, who read, who write—and who publish.
There were really two Gourmet magazines, the sleepy, blancmange-and-Nun’s-Lemon-Layer-Cake version that began in 1941, and the one Ruth Reichl re-created in 1999, for which I wrote occasionally. My mother’s friends would smack me hard around the head and ears for saying that the magazine was sleepy in the '50s and '60s and '70s. (My mother had no opinion; she didn’t cook.) They loved the recipes, they loved the elegance, and when the magazine added more travel pieces in the '80s, they loved that too and talked about olives in Provence and that little café outside Ravenna. They loved their Gourmet the way I loved mine. (Read the rest of Amy Bloom's eulogy for Gourmet.)
When I was in college, I did what every aspiring journalist did back then, in the dark ages of the 1970s—I would research and write an article, type it out on my portable electric typewriter, put it in an envelope, lick a stamp, and mail it off to a glossy magazine in hopes of getting it published. How quaint every step of that process seems now, right down to the stamp. Writer’s Market was my bible, a fat directory I’d leaf through to get editors’ names and addresses for the magazines in which I longed to appear. Oh, to have my words printed on the pages of Esquire, the Atlantic, Saturday Review, or that pinnacle of sophistication and beautiful prose, the sanctified New Yorker.
The first national publication to respond positively to my earnest submissions wasn’t quite in the league of my idols, but it was enough: Modern Bride. When I heard yesterday of the magazine’s death as part of Condé Nast’s economizing excisions, I grew nostalgic—remembering, as it were, my first time. Remembering the thrill of that moment, standing at the mail table in my apartment house in Evanston, Ill., opening up my own shiny copy of Modern Bride, finding my own article and my own unfamiliar, newly-married byline—a moment both delightedly public and very, very personal. (Read the rest of Robin Marantz Henig's eulogy for Modern Bride.)
As part of my never-ending war on clutter, I was about to scrap the 20-odd-year collection of Gourmet magazines in my office closet, but then I heard the news today of its demise, and I’m glad I didn’t. I thumbed through an issue from 1996: It has a dozen-plus page article from Nancy Silverton with exhausting details on making sourdough breads from scratch. Gourmet always pitched its articles and its recipes for the ambitious—it was a point of pride both before and after Ruth Reichl took over the magazine in 1999 and modernized it. While the rest of the food industry seems to be headed toward quickfire, celebrity-driven easy-cooking shows, the soon-to-be-late Gourmet magazine was proud of its wordy approach to food and commitment to thinking about food’s place in politics and society, and yet it was always willing to tell you best way to make a blueberry streusel cake. (Read the rest of Sara Dickerman's eulogy for Gourmet.)
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